A traditional courtyard inside a hutong.
During your exploration around the city, namely near the Forbidden City, you’re bound to have wandered upon Beijing’s hutongs, alleyways made up of shiheyuan, or courtyard residences.
Dating back to the Yuan Dynasty, these traditional compounds were mostly inhabited by government officials and dignitaries. Other less luxurious hutongs were residences for up to several families, encouraging camaraderie among neighbors as alleyways provided common space for enjoying for games and exchanging gossip. Songbirds were kept as pets to entertain the families, too. Inside each hutong there is also a communal space in the middle of the courtyard for hanging laundry and for leisure activities. Nowadays, it’s a different story.
With modernization pressures for an accelerated development, these treasured relics of Beijing’s history are quickly become rare. Unfortunately, many hutongs have given way to the building of newer, taller developments. Many of the traditional hutongs’ nostalgia and charm now have an additional shinier, glitzier façade, with many being reincarnated into hip restaurants, microbreweries, and kitschy shops. For instance, the repurposing of a cluster of hutongs created one of the most popular shopping and bar districts located behind the Drum Tower.
These historical residences have also become real estate gems, attracting wealthy buyers into refurbishing them into lavish homes. These renovations of authentic structures with modern interiors have created a new architectural phenomenon in Beijing, highlighting the juxtaposition of old and new designs at work together. Architectural buffs may also want to take some time to experience the sights of the modern 2010 Summer Olympic grounds while also meandering through alleys of hutongs.
There are some courtyard houses in notable hutongs that are worth a visit during your time in Beijing. Renowned Chinese opera singer Mei Lanfang’s former courtyard residence is now a beautiful memorial museum, exhibiting stories of both his life and the traditional Chinese art form. Former homes of famous playwright Laoshe and revolutionist Lu Xun have also been kept as museums in their honor, allowing visitors to gain insight into their lives and past work.
The Dongxijiaominxiang hutong is the longest hutong in the city. Dongjiaominxiang begins on the east side of Tian’anmen Square in downtown Beijing, with Xijiaominxiang to the west. This hutong in particular has Western buildings in its surroundings, perfectly combining old and new Beijing in one setting.
For those keen to explore Beijing by night, take part in a nighttime bike ride through some of Beijing’s hutongs. For an even more authentic experience, arrive at a hutong on a rickshaw, followed by a cooking class inside a hutong to learn the art of dumpling-making.
The Reincarnation of Beijing’s Hutongs from Beijing Things to Do
